Thursday, August 23, 2007

Many Miles in Moscow






While we were on our European vacation, we covered a lot of country in the tube, on buses, and on trains. We also walked a lot of miles. I wore my pedometer faithfully, and recorded the steps for each day. Even on our “lightest” day, a Sunday when we attended Church, we walked over 6 miles.



The most we walked was in Moscow on July 30th when we pitter-pattered 31,399 steps. That’s over 15 miles. On that particular day, we went to a flea market, several parks, churches, a palace, and a Soviet era Expo. Many of the pictures in this blog are of the exposition buildings which are grand and elaborate, and extol the accomplishments of the Soviet Union.

After touring the expo, my son pointed out a very large tower in the distance, which he had heard was the second tallest free-standing structure in the world. He wanted to ride to the top.
It didn’t look to be as far away as it turned out to be. We walked over an hour to reach the tower, only to learn that public tours and rides to the top were no longer available. Disappointed and tired, we tried to figure out where we were. My son was sure a metro stop couldn’t be far away.

We walked probably 4 or 5 more miles through some sketchy neighborhoods and business areas before we found one. We rode back to Mendelevskaya Station our stop,(note the décor of that metro stop, and perhaps you can figure out for whom it is named) and trudged the additional mile to our apartment. My son made us dinner: pelmeni and cheesy bread, watermelon and ice cream. Traditional, tasty, and terrific to renew our energy after walking our many miles in Moscow.






Sunday, August 19, 2007

Cats and Dogs

We didn’t see too many animals while in mainland Europe. Our bed and breakfast landlady in Paris had a small dog, and a cat named Lily that wanted to sleep with us in our bed, because we gathered, it was really her bed.

In Rome we were intrigued by one specific ruin in the center of the city which was home to many wild cats. A posted sign detailed the humane, but not totally effective, efforts to control the cat population there. Click on the picture to enlarge it, and look carefully to find a few felines.

In Russia, there were quite a few wild dogs running around, often in packs of three or four. It was one such dog that threatened my Key Limey. The dog first snarled and charged toward my son and me, who were walking a short distance ahead of KL. We quickly moved away in another direction, and avoided eye contact. KL however, stopped and faced the dog, which apparently viewed this as a direct challenge. True to Russian form, this dog would not back down, or turn tail and flee the fight. Instead, the animal lunged forward at KL.

He was a large, German Shepherd-mutt-mix, and he growled at my Key Limey and snapped at him from barely two feet away. He seemed fiercer and more threatening than our next door neighbors’ dogs, (the Hounds from Hell) particularly since there was no protective fence between him and KL.

“Walk away before he bites you!” I yelled out the obvious to my husband. “I’ve had too many dog bites from dogs I turned my back on,” he replied, warily trying to inch backward without further antagonizing the dog. They continued their cold war stare-down. After a few tense moments, the dog gave one last alpha male snarl and turned away triumphantly when my husband had retreated back far enough to be out of his territory. Crisis averted.

I wanted to pet a dog I saw in the Russian metro station when I saw everyone else doing it. My son had pointed out a bronze statue of a hunter and his dog. The nose and the leg of the dog were smooth, and shiny, worn down by the constant caressing of passers-by who apparently stroke the dog for good luck. Simple enough, and maybe it works!


Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Cuckoo


My Bavarian clock finally arrived, and I coaxed KL into unpacking and assembling it. He asked me where I wanted to hang it, and suggested my office. “Well, maybe I should put it someplace where everyone can enjoy it,” I said. So first I thought I’d put it in the kitchen, but there wasn’t a wall that could accommodate the long chains. The dining room, or a spot at the top of the stairs had possibilities, but it seemed a cuckoo clock placed there might compete with the grandfather clock. Downstairs—definitely out of the question.

“The sunroom?” my son suggested. “No…not the right feel…” I shook my head. “Maybe my office.” My husband, with polite exasperation, commented that that was where he had proposed to put it in the first place.

Once in my office, the choices and decisions began anew. On the window wall, or by the pictures on the west wall? How high? Was it centered? “This is worse than rearranging furniture,” my husband muttered, as I finally approved the drill hole mark.

Although I nearly drove my Key Limey cuckoo in the process, my clock now elegantly graces my office wall. Its delicate edelweiss and gentian flowers remind me of the lovely German countryside that we thoroughly enjoyed on our trip.





Monday, August 13, 2007

Water

We learned very quickly in Europe that water is hard to come by. Drinking fountains in public places do not exist. Bottled water is expensive and is often carbonated, and warm. It rankled me that water was not offered with meals at restaurants, and that we had to pay over four euros ($5.50) for a carafe of plain ole H20.









So we bought acqua at outrageous “captive tourist” prices, until we finally got smart and saved the plastic bottles. We filled them at our apartment, and carried them during the day in a very conspicuous purple bag, a gift given to us by our landlady, Sylvie, in Paris.










In Rome, when the temperatures were in the triple digits, we left the apartment one day carrying eight bottles of water between the two of us—including the liter bottle in the picture with my very thirsty Key Limey.












We drank all the water during our sweltering day at the Coliseum, Palatine Hill, and Roman Forum.


The Europeans seemed stingy with their drinking water, so I thought it was ironic to note the copious amounts of water used for flushing toilets. Seems to me there could be a trade off: less water in the WC, and more accessible, potable water for drinking.
















Sunday, August 12, 2007

How I Broke the Bank


Obtaining money in Moscow seems fairly easy, on the surface. There are numerous businesses on every major downtown street which exchange rubles, euros, and dollars, and ATMs abound as well.

Upon our arrival in the city, we had no rubles with which to pay our landlord, Viktor, for the apartment (picture is of the exterior) we had rented. Viktor spoke very little English, but agreed to take us to a nearby bank to withdraw some cash to pay him for our lodging. We timidly followed him through a maze of apartment buildings in our square, and across some streets. He pointed to various buildings and identified them in Russian, giving us the grand tour, I suppose. We politely nodded and smiled although we had no clue what he was saying.

At the ATM, I inserted my debit card, and followed the instructions on the screen, which thankfully had an English option. I was frustrated, but not surprised, when the screen flashed with the message that my card was not valid. We’d had trouble with this card previously. A couple of other customers had entered the small foyer, and were waiting in line behind me to use the machine.

I thought I could quickly use a different card. After inserting the second card, I instantly knew something was wrong when I heard a strange whirring noise which did not stop. I tried to press “Cancel” on the screen, but it was frozen. I pressed all the buttons to no avail, while the whirring noise continued.

I looked back helplessly at Viktor and my husband who were standing to the back of the vestibule. “It’s not working,” I mouthed desperately to my husband. He came over, and had no luck getting the machine to emit cash or card. Then Viktor came forward to see what the problem was. “It’s not working!” I repeated, and Viktor understood. He went inside the bank to get help.

The customers in line in back of me began to get restless. I tried smiling apologetically, but there was no sympathy in return. The machine kept whirring. In my head I rehearsed a Russian term, “izvineetye” (excuse me), hoping to prevent hostility. Just then Viktor came back with a large, stern woman. She did not speak to me, but her look was not pleasant. She used a key to open up the front of the machine, and we could see my card sliding in and out, making the whirring noise.

The woman tried to grab my card, and nearly had her fingers sucked back into the machine with it. She was not happy. She fired off some angry Russian to Viktor, who responded slowly, and I hope, in my defense. The woman stalked into the bank, and returned with a man who turned the machine completely off. The woman retrieved my card and glowered at all of us standing around watching the rescue operation. She held up the card and asked a question which I intuitively knew that answering might mean some sort of jail time for me.

I grabbed my card with a whispered “spasiba” and made a dash for the door, leaving Viktor to give some sort of explanation. I heard the woman say something to the other customers that resulted in their response with something akin to hisses and boos. I realized they would not be getting their money either.

Fortunately, the bank employee did not give us any further hassle, and none of the irate customers bothered us either. Viktor took us to another of the plentiful ATMs, and we quickly and easily procured our rubles, and paid him. He was happy, and we were relieved.

After that incident, we let our Russian-speaking and Russian-savvy son handle our money matters.

Sunday, August 05, 2007

It Was All Good

We’re back! We survived two grueling trans-Atlantic flights, lousy exchange rates, hostile subway riders, expensive yet unsanitary WCs, exhausting sightseeing, unrelenting street vendors, one faulty voltage converter, several close calls crossing busy streets, an Italian brouhaha on a late-night bus, borsch, a non-functioning debit card, a dearth of potable water, one very big pinkie toe blister, night trains with no morning shower, helplessness due to language deficiencies, one extremely bossy landlady, miles of walking with our carry-on backpacks, phone card frustrations, two or three dousing thunderstorms, a wild dog attack, the long line to see Lenin, downgraded accommodations, blistering 102 degree heat, walking the perimeter of an entire country in blistering 102 degree heat, getting hopelessly lost several times, intimidating Russian reprimands for (among other things) breaking an ATM, a German laundromat, a bawdy and unseemly bike tour guide, losing and finding an indispensable sweater, dozens of mispronounced and misunderstood words, a camera battery that needed constant recharging, being together 24-7 for nearly three weeks…………………………………

………………..AND WE LOVED EVERY MINUTE OF IT!!!